Saturday, January 2, 2010

Vegetarian does Mexican --- Part 1

(Also published on Examiner.com at this link: http://www.examiner.com/x-30849-Austin-Vegetarian-Food-Examiner~y2010m1d2-Mexican-food-in-Austin-vegetarian-style)

Having just returned from Cancun, I had to write about Mexican and Tex-Mex food in Austin. It’s obviously tough to distinguish between real Mexican and Tex-Mex fare here. But some restaurants are “different” i.e. probably a little more authentic and true to Mexican cuisine.
I am sure Austin, especially South Austin, has more to offer in terms of Mexican cooking, but for now, my top 3 picks are:
- Fonda San Miguel
- Manuel’s
- Polvo’s
(And no, for loyal Austin residents, Chuy’s – the Tex-Mex restaurant - doesn’t figure on that list.)
Fonda San Miguel, the highly-ranked and critically acclaimed Austin restaurant has a Sunday brunch buffet that gets crowded even as doors open and is a vegetarian’s delight as well. The chef sometimes stands beside the buffet explaining the various dishes to patrons. Once, when asked about the different style of cooking and flavors used in the food, he explained, “This is inner Mexican cuisine, not like any other Mexican fare you get in the US.”

As the Fonda San Miguel website says: “The Fonda San Miguel Brunch contains a sumptuous variety of dishes ranging from the more traditional to exciting takes on ancient recipes. Along the front table are large clay ollas (vats) filled with meat dishes often cooked in moles and pipians (sauces made with ground nuts, spices, fruits and seed). Several tables are filled with bowls of salads with zesty seasonings and fresh local vegetables and fruit. The dessert table is not to be missed with the likes of arroz con leche (rice pudding), capirotada (bread pudding) and flan almendrado (almond flan)”.
While the website doesn’t list the price, the brunch has typically been in the $40 per head range, approximately.

Manuel’s will probably always be a favorite for me in Austin. The staff can sometimes be overheard advising newer servers/waiters that their cuisine is “more Mexican and not Tex-Mex”. You can just as easily find some of the usual Tex-Mex fare on their menu, as you can find some very different Mexican dishes as well. As a vegetarian, do inquire about the broth they use to cook their rice. As I recollect, at one time, they warned me that the rice was cooked in chicken broth. In more recent times the servers have been telling me the rice is vegetarian.

The very delicious Tortas de Papa (grilled potato and corn masa cakes with sautéed corn, garlic, cilantro and salsa tomatillo) and the Chile Con Queso (queso blanco melted and mixed with tomatoes, onions and poblano peppers and served with tortillas) are excellent appetizers. The Tortas De Papa ($7.5) can also be an entire vegetarian meal. The Chile Con Queso ($7.5) is unique and unlike the yellow cheese dip you get at other Tex-Mex restaurants. A vegetarian favorite entrée is the “Flauta” with black bean and white cheese ($9) - grilled enchiladas served with your choice of salsa. (The salsa verde seems to make it a truly delicious combination. )

Polvo’s is a charming little local restaurant in South Austin and is a huge attraction for weekend and evening crowds, making it a very crowded little restaurant. Their chips and salsa bar is not free, but offers up a variety of truly delicious salsas. Once again, it’s easy to find more Mexican fare on their menu, as opposed to the usual Tex-Mex dishes, like the. My favorite vegetarian appetizer there is the Papas Monterrey ($5.99) (freshly cooked potatoes and sautéed onions and jalapeños), which have a spicy-tangy taste to them. As for the vegetarian entrees, everything rocks and many menu items can be customized for vegetarians.

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